DUBROVNIK, CROATIA

One thing that was totally random yet completely perfect about our trip through eastern Europe was our little overnight in Dubrovnik. While planning our trip last year, Pattie and I had talked about the possibility of coming to this little haven, since it's always been a dream of Pattie's to come here to explore. Why we didn't realize we were staying with the ultimate road-trip family and suggest this trip to them earlier, I don't know.

We arrived and enjoyed another golden hour welcome, gawking over the lovely view from our Airbnb's front porch. Our host offered us a drink and proceeded to show us the best routes to explore old Dubrovnik and how to get back to this place on the free public bus.

Before the sun got too low, we trekked down the alleyways of steps between the orange-roofed houses, finding cats along the way and stopping every now and then to comment on how I was shivering in 50 degrees and Pattie was simply wearing a cardigan.

We made it to the old city, and the sun dropped out of the sky pretty dramatically. The well-lit streets were beautiful, buzzing with people, but not too crowded. The entire downtown is a walled fortress built long ago, and though we saw it with some modern touches, it was as if we'd been transported back in time. We got what seemed like the Croatian version of a hotdog (but much better, in my opinion) after perusing the shops and stores lining the ancient city.

We grabbed some Balkan snacks (Pringles, Schweppes, you know) at the tiny old town supermarket before heading back to our place to binge watch "The Flash."

In the morning we dived right back into the windy city. This place was just so perfect in all it's medieval glory, it was just too much. Down to every detail, Dubrovnik was a place different than I had ever seen. I'd heard rumors of Game of Thrones, and now Star Wars being filmed here, and I completely understand why. It felt untouched by anyone from the outside, almost like we were the only tourists to have ever come here.

Two things we tried during our time in Croatia were arancini and Turkish coffee. I'd heard a bunch of buzz about the latter, but no one had ever said "don't stir it," so obviously, I stirred it. And I was left with a mouthful of what Pattie and I deemed "coffee sludge." The taste was good, but since I was left picking little coffee debris out of my teeth several long minutes later, I might be done. Arancini is candied orange peel, and I just love it. You can get candied fruit peels in a lot of places, but this was a first for me and I will be learning how to make it myself, thanks.

Our last stop before heading back to Montenegro was the Dubrovnik harbor. Windy, chilly, cold and as bright as can be, this was a sight to behold. Mountains for miles along the coast, you could just catch the smallest glimpse of the flat sea that separated this country from the Italian peninsula. Looking up the mountain and seeing the peppering of homes, those orange roofs and almost-white stone walls blinding in the sunshine, and the yachts floating in the sapphire blue water. I'm pretty happy with the images I have, and even still it doesn't do this place justice. A million thanks to Jeff, Jen & their kids for this brief trip. It's no wonder they travel as much as they do.

BAY OF KOTOR + BAR, MONTENEGRO

The first and only time I'd heard of Montenegro before this trip was when James Bond vacationed there, so I'd seen the beautiful scapes on the screen. Montenegro was every bit as beautiful and breathtaking as it was in the movies.

Pattie and I arrived at golden hour on AirSerbia to the one-gate airport in Podgorica. Jeff found us easily in the crowd of maybe 20 people and we drove some of the most incredible mountain roads I've ever been on, and I felt a little crazy and had to stop myself from asking to stop every five minutes to take pictures. After passing Skadar Lake and driving into Bar, we stopped at a little lit up roadside restaurant to try a Balkan favorite, cévapi. Imagine a sandwich of sorts with sausages, peppers, pickles and a spicy paste. Amazing.

In the morning we saw more of Montenegro's best: food and views. We feasted on kiflice and palacînka for breakfast, the former being crescent yeast rolls filled with cheese and ham, the latter resembling but beating a chocolate crêpe.

On our way to Croatia, we traveled down the coast toward the Bay of Kotor. We stopped to take pictures of Sveti Stefan, a former village that's been a resort for the hi-so in some way, shape, or form for over the past half century. Can't get over those roofs.

On our first way through the Bay of Kotor, we ferried across to shorten the trip, loving the sunny, windy ferry ride and marveling at the deep blue of the water. On our way back, we drove around, getting to see more details and gaping in awe of the churches basically floating on the surface of the water. Our Lady of the Rocks, and St. George's Benedictine monastery.

I never thought I would ever get to say I'd been to a place like this. I mean, who in the world has been to Montenegro? I will forever be thankful for our extremely knowledgable hosts who made absolutely sure we saw every bit of richness this country had to offer.

AMSTERDAM, NETHERLANDS

Let me just say: I didn't expect to fall in love with Amsterdam. Don't get me wrong, I thought I would enjoy it based on things my friends had said who'd been. But it was hard and fast, and those cobblestone streets aren't very forgiving. Alas, it was a short affair, since I came in on a Sunday and left the immediate Tuesday. Never have I experienced a city that held such closeness, even for as big and "cold-culture" as it may be. The lovely, tall Escher-esque look of the buildings, the intricacy of the winding canals and alleyways. The packed-in-ness of the bicycles, the warmth of cafés and the unique and surprisingly cohesive feel of the culture, both in appearance and vibe. Such great design, such well connected transport... I could go on, but let me save you from my obvious infatuation. 

Upon my arrival, I navigated Pattie's directions to her place a little outside the center of the city. Only one hiccup: I didn't know to press the "off" button on the tram until after I'd passed the stop and then got my exercise walking along a highway back to her stop. I did, however, manage to not look like a tourist at the train station when I first got on the tram. Check.

After some tea at her place, we headed to her favorite little dive restaurant/café in town, Prins Heerlijk. I ordered the Chicken Special and it was the best cheddar-y thing I've ever eaten. Amsterdam at night was filled to the brim, I noticed how obviously young the city was. Everyone seemed to be in their 30's or younger. Also we spent our first night watching the latest Star Wars movie. No better way to chill out after a travel day, I'd say.

In the morning we were greeted with a not-too-cold day, so we leisurely made our way back into the thick of the city, stopping for some caffeine and pastries and quiche (hey, it's vacation) at De Laatste Kruimel, a beautiful and homey café that is obviously well loved by locals. We talked about the book Pattie is writing and brainstormed ridiculous plot twists.

If you've never met Pattie, the first thing you'll need to know is her passionate love of everything book- and reading-related. I can't count the number of bookstores we stopped into during our travels together, but I know that my favorites were the three story ones, the first of which was in Amsterdam, the American Book Center.

The highlight of the day for me was the time we spent inside the Stedelijk Museum. My little geeky designer print-obsessed mind was having an absolute field day, and if Pattie hadn't had other things for us to do, I could have spent all day in there, debating with myself about the purpose of this art, this design, perfectionistly poring over lithographs and trying to figure out if a piece was screenprinted or not, it was just that perfectly done. There was so much modern furniture, ridiculous exhibits using trash is ways I'd never even imagined, and loads of installments that I can't begin to describe if I tried. Just go. That is all.

Bagel sandwiches are pretty high up on my long long list of heaven in an object. Especially the ones at Bagels & Beans, an amazing Dutch chain of beautiful Panera-esque cafés. You just try to look at that Brie bagel and not want one. Even though my shot of Pattie's BLT bagel is obviously more top-notch. 

Pattie humored me and took me to a place called De Negen Straatjes, or "The Nine Streets," a little shopping neighborhood with lovely things like cheese shops (real, not rubbery cheese!), trinket boutiques and design bookstores. Every large city has their version of this area, but this was unlike anything I'd seen before. I'm so glad I had't brought much money with me, or I'd have been a goner.

To call it a night we continued our theme of walking around town while accompanying crowds for the Amsterdam Festival of Light. There were interactive light exhibits as well as ones simply for viewing, and it was some of the most unreal stuff I've seen people create, only the interactive ones were somewhat hard to "get" considering the amount of people. 

After satisfying a Chipotle craving I'd had for over a year with Salsa Shop (so close), I finally had a "real" stroopwafel and a picture to prove it. The next morning was too soon to leave, but the full day was truly all I could have wanted in a city.